Enchanting Architecture
on Hilltops - Buddhist Monasteries in Leh!
Many
sculptures come to mind, when one thinks of the architecture on hilltops in our
country; ranging from Karla Caves, Shivaji Maharaja's Forts, Ajanta, Ellora, to
many more! However, there are a few that have been imbibed in my mind
for many years; the sculptures of the very peaceful, beautiful Buddhist
monasteries on the hilltops in Leh!
The atmosphere there is so serene
and tranquil ant that the mind starts resonating with these mesmerizing lines unconsciously;
Ye vadiyan, ye fizayen bula rahi hain tumhe,
Khamoshionki sadayen bula rahi
hain tumhe!
These monasteries are high up on hilltops, with only high mountains all around, and the nature is so silent and still, as if a painter has painted a picture with his magic brush! On reaching there, one cannot help but wonder how the sculptures could have been constructed in a place where it’s so difficult to reach by any modern vehicles; more so because science and technology were not so developed at the time when they were created.
Leh is the capital and largest
city of Ladakh; Ladakh is a union territory in the northern part of India,
whose culture is Tibetan. Very beautiful landscapes, pure environment,
surrounding hilltops, mountain ranges, divine peace, spiritual culture are the main
features of this region! The main dialect here is Ladakhi! Tourism is the
primary occupation.
Geographically, this region
extends to Baltistan Valley, Indus Valley, Zanskar, Lahaul and Spiti in the
south, Rudok, Guge, Nagari in the east, Kun Lun Mountains in the northeast and
'Khardong La' in the Ladakh Hills while Nubra Valley lies in the north.
Ladakh in regional language means
high land – a very apt name!
Buddhist
monasteries in Ladakh are holy places, surrounded by majestic Himalayan mountain
ranges. These monasteries embody the spiritual psyche of Ladakh. It is
difficult to find such a serene and secluded place for self - reflection,
meditation, remembrance and observation! It offers a peaceful haven to many
devout locals and devotees from all over the world. The profound beauty of the
Buddhist monasteries of Ladakh should be experienced only by staying there!
Moments filled with spiritual peace, bringing your mind at peace, can be
experienced here!
Leh Ladakh
has many monasteries where Buddha and his various incarnations known as
Bodhisattvas are worshipped. These principles are studied for the purpose of
Moksha or Nirvana i.e. freedom from the cycle of life and death. In addition, they
are designed to be free wild life sanctuaries.
Among all the monasteries we saw and experienced on our journey to Ladakh, Spituk is a beautiful monastery on the banks of the Indus River; established in the 11th century. Today, approximately a hundred Buddhist monks live there, performing daily rituals, worshipping and monastery activities.
There is a huge idol of Sri Kalidevi,
which is open to public only during the annual festival. The monastery houses a
wonderful collection of unique Buddhist symbols, including five thangkas,
sculptures, chortens, and ancient weapons.
Entering the monastery there, we were
welcomed in their traditional manner of offering white sashes. With great
affection, we were asked about where we came from, what were we doing for living, how we
travelled and we were shown around the entire monastery.
The whitewashed stupas, brightly
colored prayer flags, the constant smell of juniper in the air, monks of all
ages draped in red robes, elders circling the monasteries and stupas offers a very
spiritual sight. A monastery is also called a gompa, meaning "secluded
places"! These sculptures, symbolizing the glory of Buddhism, are the centres
of worship. Built on the hillside, the monastery looks like a fortress due to
its long walls with prayers carved on the stones, multi-coloured prayer flags
flying above the buildings.
Another beautiful monastery we visited
was the Thiksey Monastery! This monastery was established in the 15th
century. It is 19 km east of Leh, one of the largest
monasteries in Ladakh, with very tall buildings that complement the village.
Different shapes and grandeur are its features! The monastery houses a 15 meter tall idol of Chamba or Maitreya Buddha, housed in a
two-storied temple complex. The statue was dedicated by Dalai Lama in 1980. The rooftop offers a panoramic view of Leh; Shey Palace,
Stukna, Stok Kangri Peak, Matho Gompa, green fields spread all around. Prayers,
Pooja archa starts early morning and anyone can attend.
A particular stringed instrument called
dramyin or dranyen is played here, its sound reverberating in the sky and giving
a distinct mental sublimity and divine feeling. The melodious sound is said to attract demons; the
instrument being associated with a deity, guarding the citizens.
This is the largest and oldest
monastery, which has the honour of being a place of pilgrimage. It boasts of a valuable collection of many Buddhist idols, scientific journals,
journals, books, valuable ancient codes, swords, stupas and thangka paintings.
A most picturesque
and handsome monastery we next visited was the Lamayuru Monastery, believed to
be the oldest monastery situated in the hills above the valley, off the main
road from Fotu La Pass to Khalsa. It is located on the Leh - Srinagar National
Highway and hence has a convenient access. The eleventh century Indian Buddhist
scholar Naropa Lamayuru is said to vsit this place and meditated in a small
meditation cave in the wall. Legend has it that the monastery was at the bottom
of a deep lake and the lake later became a landscape. During Shakyamuni's time,
where Lamayuru is located, there was a valley and a clear lake inhabited by
sacred snakes and serpents. After some time the lake evaporated and a monastery
was established there. This prediction was made many more years ago. After the
lake was gone, Naropa found a dead lion submerged in the water of the lake,
which he named Simhe Ghang, meaning Lion's Mound.
In the 10th century, the King of Ladakh
built a new monastery building. Many ancient, valuable books and pictures can
be seen here. It accommodates 150 lamas but at present
approximately 50 lamas live here and initiate Dharma Diksha
or Religion Education to disciples. Twice a year, in March and July, a large festival
is organized, which lasts for three days. Prayers are held at this place for
all and traditional dances are performed, wearing different masks. The area
around the monastery has been declared a free wild life sanctuary, where all life
resides with security and freedom.
A visit to these three monasteries is a pleasant experience for all
visitors to Leh. There are many more monasteries in Leh, Ladakh; each with
different specific features and characteristics! Surely these mountain
architectures are enchantingly attractive and offer a great peace of mind!
Prof. Dr. Jaya Kurhekar
Green Blogger
